Art, Oysters, and Coal Dust: A Critic’s Winter Escape to Avion
Darling, put down that lukewarm latte and listen. I know what you are thinking: Avion? That little spot in the Pas-de-Calais? Is Inna finally losing her mind after one too many conceptual art installations involving sentient moss? Not at all. While the rest of the world is shivering in the predictable queues of Paris, we are heading north. It is January 30, 2026, the sky is the color of a freshly primed canvas, and Avion is whispering secrets that only those of us with a penchant for industrial chic and high-end curation can hear.
09:00 – The Ritual of the Caffeine Kick
We begin our day in the heart of Avion. It is crisp, it is cold, and your coat needs to be as sharp as my tongue. We are stopping at a local boulangerie near the Place de la République. Forget your oat milk decaf nonsense; here, we drink a "grand café" and eat a croissant so buttery it should be illegal. The locals are hardy, wonderful people who have survived the decline of the mining industry with more grace than most artists handle a bad review. This is the cultural context you need: resilience. Avion isn't just a town; it is a testament to the grit beneath the glamour.
10:30 – The Glass Miracle: Louvre-Lens
Technically, we are crossing the invisible border into Lens, but since it is a pleasant twenty-minute walk or a five-minute dash from Avion, we are claiming it. The Louvre-Lens is our morning destination. This building, designed by SANAA, is a minimalist’s dream—a series of low, aluminum and glass boxes that disappear into the landscape. On a winter day like today, the reflection of the pale sky against the metal is nothing short of poetic.
Inside, the Galerie du Temps is where I usually weep with joy. Instead of being tucked away in dark rooms, the art is arranged chronologically in one massive, open space. You can see the evolution of humanity from 3500 BC to the mid-19th century in a single glance. Practical tip: Leave your heavy coat in the lockers. The heating is divine, and you want to feel light as you judge the brushwork of the 17th-century masters. Look for the "rare" loans—the museum often rotates masterpieces from the Parisian mother ship that you would usually have to fight five thousand tourists to see.
13:00 – The Oyster Quest
By now, I am fading. My soul requires saline. We are heading to a brasserie that understands the importance of the coast. While Avion is inland, the proximity to the Opal Coast means the seafood is spectacular. I’ve scouted a spot that serves Fine de Claire oysters on ice, even in the dead of winter. There is something profoundly satisfying about eating cold, metallic oysters while looking out at a landscape that was once defined by coal. It is the ultimate contrast—the luxury of the sea meeting the history of the earth. Pair it with a crisp glass of Chablis. It is 2026, darling; we don't do "dry January" here.
14:30 – The Slag Heaps: Earth Art in the Wild
Now, for something truly rare. We are visiting the Terrils of the 11/19 base. These are not just piles of mining waste; they are the highest slag heaps in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage site. To an art critic, they are massive, accidental land art installations. We are going to hike up one. Why? Because the view from the top provides the best perspective of the mining basin’s "black diamonds."
It is a bit of a climb, so I hope you wore those designer boots with the sensible soles. The wind will be biting, but the sight of these twin dark pyramids against the winter horizon is more moving than any contemporary sculpture I’ve seen in a gallery this year. It tells the story of the men and women who built this region. It is historical, it is heavy, and it is beautiful.
16:30 – Contemporary Echoes at Le 9-9bis
A short hop away is Le 9-9bis in Oignies. This is a former mine site turned into a cultural hub. On a Friday afternoon in late January, it is usually quiet, which is exactly how I like it. They host incredible contemporary sound installations and photography exhibitions that play with the industrial echoes of the buildings. The "Metaphone" is a piece of architecture that is actually a musical instrument. It is weird, it is loud, and it is exactly the kind of avant-garde experience that justifies our trip. Check their schedule before you go; they often have "carte blanche" evenings for regional artists.
19:00 – Dinner and Reflection in Avion
We end our day back in Avion for a hearty dinner. We are looking for a "potjevleesch"—a traditional Flemish terrine—or perhaps a carbonnade flamande. The local cuisine is designed to keep you warm, much like a good wool scarf. We will find a cozy spot with dim lighting where we can sit and scroll through our photos of the Galerie du Temps.
The beauty of Avion and its surroundings isn't found in the obvious. It is in the way the light hits the glass of the Louvre, the way the history of the mines is being repurposed into art, and the way a town can reinvent itself without losing its soul. It is a day of contrasts: coal and glass, oysters and earth, history and the future. Now, let’s get another bottle of wine. I have some thoughts on that 18th-century sculpture that I simply must share with you.