A Day of Art, Oysters, and Bavarian Brews: Inna Sezane's Munich Masterpiece

Dearest Friend,

Daniel Seßler

So, you're thinking of gracing Munich with your discerning eye on the 24th of December, 2025? Excellent choice! While the Christmas markets will be twinkling, we're going to navigate a path less trodden, a curated journey through Munich's artistic soul, punctuated by the essential fuel for any serious art explorer: coffee and, naturally, oysters. Pack your warmest cashmere, darling, because we're about to embark on a day of cultural indulgence.

Our day begins, as all good days should, with a strong Kaffee and a gentle acclimatisation to Bavaria's charm. Forget your usual hotel breakfast; we're heading to Café Luitpold (Brienner Straße 11). This isn't just a café; it's a grand dame of Munich's coffee house culture, a place where intellectual conversations have flowed as freely as the espresso for over a century. Think ornate ceilings, plush velvet seating, and a pastry selection that could make a saint weak at the knees.

Practical Tip: Arrive by 9:00 AM. It’s a popular spot, and you'll want to snag a prime window seat to watch the city wake up. Order a Melange – it’s the Austrian answer to a cappuccino, but with a certain je ne sais quoi.

From Luitpold, it's a leisurely stroll (about 15 minutes) to our first artistic pilgrimage: the Alte Pinakothek (Barer Straße 27). Now, I know what you're thinking, "Old Masters? Inna, darling, you're known for the cutting edge!" And you're right, but even the most avant-garde artist cut their teeth on the masters. This museum houses an incredible collection of European art from the 14th to the 18th centuries. We're talking Dürer, Rembrandt, Rubens – the heavy hitters.

Why it Matters: It’s crucial to understand the roots from which contemporary art springs. Seeing Dürer’s meticulous detail or Rembrandt’s mastery of light will give you a profound appreciation for the evolution of artistic expression. Plus, it’s wonderfully warm inside, a welcome respite from the December chill.

Making the Most of It: Don't try to see everything. Focus on a few key wings. I recommend the Netherlandish and German Baroque sections. Look for the subtle nuances in their brushstrokes; it’s like deciphering a secret code. And for goodness sake, don't just stare; engage. Imagine the artists themselves in their studios.

Around noon, our stomachs will begin to rumble. Time for a little something to keep us going before our next artistic dive. We'll make our way towards the Viktualienmarkt, but not for the usual tourist fare. We're seeking out the hidden gem, Austernbar (Viktualienmarkt 19). Yes, oysters in Munich! Don't raise an eyebrow; these are some of the freshest you'll find this side of the North Sea, flown in daily.

Local Insight: While Bavaria is famous for its hearty fare, Munich has a surprisingly cosmopolitan palate. The Viktualienmarkt is a hub for local produce and gourmet delights, and the Austernbar is its shucking, briny heart.

Practical Tip: Order a half-dozen of their finest – perhaps a few Fine de Claire and a couple of Gillardeau. A crisp, dry Muscadet is the only acceptable accompaniment.

Fueled and invigorated, we'll head to the Pinakothek der Moderne (Barer Straße 40). This is where we get our contemporary fix. It's a sprawling beast of a museum, housing art, architecture, graphic design, and applied arts. Think of it as a modern art smorgasbord.

Why it Matters: This is the pulsating heart of Munich's contemporary scene. You'll find everything from Bauhaus furniture to Pop Art to the bleeding edge of digital installations. It’s a testament to Munich's embrace of the new while respecting the old.

Making the Most of It: The building itself is a masterpiece of modern architecture. Take a moment to appreciate the light and space. For contemporary art, head to the third floor. Look for the works of German artists who are pushing boundaries. And if you get lost, don't panic; it's part of the adventure. Just remember, the coffee shop here is decent too, should the need arise.

As the afternoon wanes, and the December light begins to fade, we’ll transition to a more intimate experience. A short tram ride will take us to the Museum Brandhorst (Theresienstraße 35a). This museum is a personal favourite. Its striking, colourful façade is a work of art in itself. Inside, it houses a remarkable private collection, focusing on post-war and contemporary art.

Why it Matters: This is where you'll find those "aha!" moments. The collection is eclectic and surprising, often featuring works you might not see in larger institutions. It’s like stumbling upon a secret artist's studio.

Local Insight: The Museum Brandhorst has a wonderful way of presenting its collection, often in unexpected juxtapositions. Don't be afraid to engage with the less familiar pieces; they might just surprise you.

Making the Most of It: Allocate at least two hours here. The collection is diverse, from Andy Warhol to Cy Twombly. Take your time, let the art speak to you, and don't be afraid to linger. The quiet contemplation here is just as valuable as the grand pronouncements of larger museums.

As evening descends, and the Christmas lights of Munich begin to twinkle in earnest, it's time for a well-deserved aperitif. We'll find ourselves at Goldene Bar (Barer Straße 46), located within the Haus der Kunst. This isn't just a bar; it's an institution. Its Art Deco interior is pure glamour, and the cocktails are, frankly, divine.

Practical Tip: Go for their signature "Goldene Bar" cocktail. It’s a sophisticated blend that will prepare your palate for the evening's culinary delights. It’s the perfect place to debrief on the day's artistic discoveries.

For our grand finale, we're going for a truly Bavarian, yet refined, experience. Forget the tourist traps. We're heading to Wirtshaus in der Au (Lilienstraße 51). While it's known for its traditional Bavarian food, and yes, they do an excellent Schweinshaxe, they also have an impressive selection of local craft beers and a wonderfully convivial atmosphere.

Why it Matters: It’s essential to experience the local culture, and what is more Bavarian than a good beer hall? It’s a place where you can feel the pulse of the city, surrounded by locals enjoying their evening.

Making the Most of It: Order a tasting flight of their house-brewed beers. It’s a fantastic way to sample the local offerings. And if you're feeling adventurous, try their Knödel (dumplings) – they’re surprisingly delicate.

And there you have it, my dear friend. A day of art, culture, sustenance, and a touch of Bavarian magic. Munich on Christmas Eve can be truly enchanting, and by weaving art into its fabric, you'll experience a side of this magnificent city that few truly discover. Now, go forth, be inspired, and remember to send me a postcard.

With artistic affection, Inna Sezane